On the Road: Arkansas

Arkansas River, Van Buren, Arkansas

Arkansas River, Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren is on the banks of the Arkansas River. It is an excellent place to break a long journey for an hour or two.

Van Buren must have one of the most impressive main streets in all of small-town America. Almost all the buildings along it are old and attractive, and most of them are put to good use. Note in particular the railroad station at the top of the low hill and Crawford County Bank half way toward the river (the river should definitely be visited. Just across the railroad tracks are a pretty riverside park, small quays popular with the owners of leisure boats and a few large industrial buildings). On Fridays and Saturdays, special passenger trains depart from the station (otherwise, the only trains carry freight), but a small museum in the booking hall is open all week from about 9.00am to 6.00pm. It is worth examining the town’s book and antique shops because prices are very competitive. Coffee and a Good Book, 414 Main Street, is worth visiting for moderately priced tea, coffee, light snacks and ice cream, all of which can be consumed as you look at the books, antiques and bric-a-brac. For more substantial meals, try Carol’s Cafe a few doors along on the same side of the street. Mains and specials cost from $7. More eating options exist near the station.

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

For history buffs, Van Buren provides an opportunity to undertake a self-guided Civil War Tour on foot. Among the sites you visit is Crawford County Courthouse. Stop 6 takes you to the riverside where a long wall has a mural telling the story of Van Buren from the earliest times to the most recent. The mural is very good.

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Van Buren, Arkansas

Because the scenery was so lovely all the way from Van Buren to Little Rock, we went via Paris, Havana and Highway 10. This meant that we entered Magazine Mountain State Park where we left the car to walk along the bank of a small reservoir not far from the pass beside Mount Magazine itself. Near the summit in pretty wooded countryside was Shirley’s Outback Restaurant where staff served drinks and light meals.

Between Van Buren and Little Rock, Arkansas

Between Van Buren and Little Rock, Arkansas

Between Van Buren and Little Rock, Arkansas

Between Van Buren and Little Rock, Arkansas

Parking in Little Rock’s downtown was the cheapest anywhere on the trip in the largest cities, so we took advantage of the opportunity to explore the city centre on foot. There was a lot to enjoy because downtown was compact, quiet and full of very friendly people (however, the weather can be very hot and humid in August). River Market District was worth visiting for the shops, cafes and restaurants, but more interesting was the landscaped open space called Riverfront Park between the shops and the Arkansas River. Here was a pretty open-air auditorium where concerts took place. There were also good views of the bridges over the river.

Among the buildings worth seeing in Little Rock were the Clinton Presidential Centre east of River Market, Little Rock Central High School (the school was important because of the 1957 civil rights “Central High Crisis” involving the Little Rock Nine. The statues of the Little Rock Nine were on the lawn in front of the State Capitol, itself an attractive building) and Capitol Hotel. The latter was being renovated when we saw it. Located at 111 West Markham Street, the hotel dated from 1876. Other fine buildings overlooked Main Street.

Little Rock, Arkansas

Little Rock, Arkansas

Little Rock, Arkansas

Little Rock, Arkansas

The most attractive views of Little Rock derive from the waterfront in North Little Rock across the Arkansas River. It is from here that you also get the best views of the bridges. Riverfront Drive provides many excellent vantage points.

A visit to Main Street in North Little Rock is worthwhile because it is overlooked by some lovely buildings reflecting small-town America at its best. Visit Fat Boys Cafe for breakfast, lunch or drinks (the cafe opens from 7.00am to 3.00pm). Sandwiches and famous dogs cost from $5 and specials from $7. There are also excellent smoothies and tasty desserts. Once again, parking is no problem, even along Main Street. Most parking spots are free to encourage business.

North Little Rock, Arkansas

North Little Rock, Arkansas

North Little Rock, Arkansas

North Little Rock, Arkansas

North Little Rock, Arkansas

North Little Rock, Arkansas