We arrived in Kemmerer, an old mining and railroad town famous for the remarkable fossils found in the surrounding area. The town’s first two motels looked barely open or as if they rented only to people on a long-term basis, and the third asked too much for what was a grubby room. But we struck lucky with the fourth motel, one called the Antler. Its elaborate metal sign overlooking the main road suggested we had been transported to the 1950s or 1960s.
Kemmerer, Wyoming
Kemmerer, Wyoming
Kemmerer turned out to be the perfect place to stay for our last night on the road. It was an economically disadvantaged settlement, despite being on the Union Pacific Railroad and having gas and oil installations in the area, but there were enough landmark buildings in downtown to provide some stimulation. Moreover, even better things existed just a few miles west of the town at Fossil Butte National Monument, which we visited the following morning.
Kemmerer was established in 1897 and incorporated in 1899. It prides itself on its coal mining heritage. A mine remains open about 6 miles from the town. Mining in and around Kemmerer began underground, but today’s one is said to be the largest open-pit coal mine in the world. The Union Pacific Coal Company opened the first underground mine in 1881 after construction of the Oregon Short Line Railroad from Granger to Oregon via Idaho.
Downtown, the notable buildings include Lincoln County Courthouse, the Town Hall, an eye-catching brick-built post office, a terrace of commercial buildings on South Main Street, the J. C. Penney Mother Store and the J. C. Penney Homestead, the latter a delightful but surprisingly modest house not far from the railroad.
Kemmerer, Wyoming
J. C. Penney Mother Store, Kemmerer, Wyoming
J. C. Penney Home, Kemmerer, Wyoming
A little-known fact about Kemmerer is that J. C. (James Cash) Penney founded what was to become his chain of stores after moving to Kemmerer in 1902. Penney came to Kemmerer to open a dry goods store for the booming mining town. The original store still operates in Kemmerer, although it gives the impression that business is slack.
Kemmerer’s downtown has some ghost signs, painted adverts and murals, and it would be foolish not to admire the appearance of at least two of the motels (e.g. Chateau Motel). Note also that some buildings have art moderne embellishments of a modest kind, as befits a town that has never been very large.
Kemmerer, Wyoming
Just for the fun of it, we drove the mile or two to the neighbouring settlement of Diamondville (in reality, there is no gap between the two settlements today) and were delighted that we did. Diamondville Avenue is the only street worth visiting, but a number of interesting buildings survive from the past. The buildings are largely constructed with brick, wood and corrugated iron. There are a garage, a blacksmith’s shop, a few other old structures and a one-time saloon. The one-time saloon now functions as a store selling antiques and bric-a-brac. Today, Diamondville Avenue shows very few signs of life, commercial or otherwise, but it has an enviable collection of landmark buildings worthy of preservation.
Diamondville, Wyoming
Diamondville, Wyoming
Diamondville Wyoming
Diamondville, Wyoming
Diamondville, Wyoming
Diamondville, Wyoming
I went for a last walk around Kemmerer as the sun began to sink below the horizon. I took photos of two carved wooden figures outside Bob’s Rock Shop near the motel. The figures have stood there since about 2003. The owner of the shop purchased the elderly male figure in Shoshone, Wyoming and shortly thereafter bought the statue of the elderly female figure from someone living near Kemmerer. Although the figures derive from different sources, they look quite similar and therefore suggest that they might be husband and wife.
Kemmerer, Wyoming
The USA: Landscapes and Urban Spaces 